Your router is probably slowing your internet if a computer plugged into it with a cable gets close to your plan's speed but Wi-Fi is slow even near the router, if results top out just under 100 Mbps on a faster plan, or if the connection only recovers after a reboot. You can confirm it in about ten minutes with three speed tests: wired to the modem, wired to the router, and on Wi-Fi.

Prove it before you buy anything

Use a laptop and the SpeedMetric speed test. Pause other downloads and streams in the house, then test in this order:

  1. Wired directly to the modem or fiber box, if you have a separate router. (Some modems only allow one device at a time, so restart the modem after you swap the cable.)
  2. Wired to the router with an Ethernet cable.
  3. On 5 GHz Wi-Fi, 1–2 meters from the router.
  4. On Wi-Fi where you normally use it.

How to read the results:

Result What it means
Test 1 slow The line or plan is the limit, not the router
Test 1 fast, test 2 much slower The router itself can't keep up, or a port or cable is limiting it
Tests 1–2 fast, test 3 slow The router's Wi-Fi is weak or misconfigured
Tests 1–3 fast, test 4 slow Coverage problem: distance and walls, not a bad router

If you only have a combined modem-router from your provider, skip test 1 and compare tests 2 and 3. A big gap between wired and close-range Wi-Fi points at the router's wireless. A gap between close range and the far room points at coverage. Wi-Fi vs Ethernet explains how much loss over Wi-Fi is normal.

Signs the router is the bottleneck

Wired is fast, but Wi-Fi is slow even next to it

Some loss over Wi-Fi is normal. A large drop at close range, on 5 GHz, on a recent phone or laptop, is not. It usually means an old Wi-Fi standard, a router that's overloaded, or a setting such as 2.4 GHz-only mode.

Results stop just under 100 Mbps

If your plan is 300 Mbps or more and every wired test lands a little under 100 Mbps, check the router's ports. Older and budget routers often have Fast Ethernet (10/100) ports instead of gigabit ones. A 100 Mbps port caps everything that passes through it, including the port that connects to your modem. The router's spec sheet or admin page shows the port speed. A damaged or very old Ethernet cable can also force a 100 Mbps link, so try a different cable before blaming the router.

No 5 GHz band, or only an old Wi-Fi standard

A router that only broadcasts 2.4 GHz, or only supports Wi-Fi 4 (802.11n) or older, struggles to deliver fast plans over the air. As a rule of thumb, treat Wi-Fi 5 (802.11ac) as the minimum for a plan above 100 Mbps. Wi-Fi 6 (802.11ax) or newer handles homes with many devices better.

It needs regular reboots

If the internet slows or drops every few days and only a restart fixes it, the router may be overheating, running out of memory, or running buggy firmware. One restart after a power cut is normal. Restarting it every week to keep it working is a sign of trouble.

It slows down when more devices connect

Phones, TVs, speakers, cameras and smart plugs all keep connections open. An older router can handle a few laptops but get sluggish with dozens of devices, even when none of them is using much.

Ping spikes whenever someone uploads

If games and calls lag only while someone backs up photos or uploads a video, the router's queue is filling up. That's called bufferbloat. Routers with Smart Queue Management (SQM) or similar features handle it far better. SpeedMetric measures idle ping, so to spot this, run a test once with the line quiet and once with an upload running, then compare how calls feel.

It no longer gets firmware updates

Routers stop getting security fixes when their makers end support. Check the manufacturer's support page for your model. Many publish end-of-life lists. A router without updates is a security risk even if it still seems fast.

How long do routers last?

There's no official lifespan. Instead of counting years, replace a router when it can't match your plan, your devices or your security needs: no gigabit ports on a faster plan, no 5 GHz, no recent firmware, or symptoms like the ones above. A router that's a few years old but still updated and fast in the tests above doesn't need replacing.

Try these fixes first

Before buying, rule out the free fixes:

  • Update the firmware from the router's app or admin page.
  • Restart it once, then retest. If speed is back to normal and stays there, there's no need to replace it.
  • Move it. Put it high, central and out of cabinets. How to boost your Wi-Fi signal covers placement and channels.
  • Split the bands. Give 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz different names and join 5 GHz on devices that support it.
  • Check one-device problems separately. If only one laptop or TV is slow, the router may be fine. See internet slow on one device.

What to replace it with

Match the router to your home and plan:

  • Gigabit Ethernet ports on every port, including the internet (WAN) port.
  • Wi-Fi 6 or newer with 5 GHz, or 6 GHz if your devices support it.
  • A mesh system if the far rooms are the problem rather than the router itself.
  • Queue management (SQM) if you game or take calls while others upload.

If the tests showed the line itself is slow, a new router won't help. Follow our step-by-step debug guide and contact your provider with your wired results.

Common questions

Can I keep my provider's router and add my own?

Usually, yes. Many provider routers have a bridge or modem mode that turns off their routing and Wi-Fi so your own router takes over. Check your provider's help pages for the exact setting.

Will a new router speed up my internet plan?

No. A router can't deliver more than your plan. It can only stop wasting what you already pay for, mostly over Wi-Fi.